Crawl Space Waterproofing in Everett, WA
Waterproofing a crawl space means keeping liquid water out of it: rain coming off the roof and yard, groundwater rising from below, and seepage through cracks in the foundation. Damp air and moist soil are a separate job for a vapor barrier or encapsulation. Water that pools under the house has to be stopped or drained before either of those will work.
This page covers the drainage side: gutters, grading, drains, and sump pumps. Request an estimate and a local crawl space contractor will follow up to find where the water is getting in.
Call (425) 552-1521
Signs the crawl space needs waterproofing
- Puddles or mud under the house after a day of steady rain
- A tide line or white mineral crust on the foundation walls
- Water seeping through cracks or where the wall meets the footing
- A vapor barrier with water pooled on top or floating in places
- Downspouts that empty within a few feet of the foundation
- Soil next to the house that slopes toward the walls
Request an estimate
- Tell us what’s wrong. A name, a phone number and what you’ve noticed is enough.
- A local crawl space contractor calls you back to book a look underneath.
- You get a price, and decide whether, and when, to go ahead.
For homes in Everett, Marysville, Arlington, Lake Stevens, Snohomish, Stanwood, Mukilteo and Mill Creek.
What a waterproofing inspection checks
The inspector's job is to trace the path water takes into the crawl space. Water coming from above is handled differently from water coming up from below, so this part of the visit matters more than anything else.
- Gutters and downspouts: clogs, leaking seams, and where each downspout lets the water out.
- The grade around the foundation. Soil should fall away from the house for the first several feet; flower beds and settled backfill often slope the wrong way.
- Foundation walls and footings for cracks, mineral crust, and wet stains, noting which wall takes the most water.
- Whether water rises from below during wet weather, which points to groundwater rather than roof or yard runoff.
- Any original footing drains, sump pumps, and discharge lines, and whether they still work.
- The lowest point of the crawl space, where a sump would go if one is needed.
- Where a drain or pump can send the water so it doesn't run back toward the house.
What affects the cost of crawl space waterproofing
The price depends on how far the fix has to go. Redirecting roof water costs little. Collecting and pumping groundwater costs a lot more.
Outside fixes
Cleaning gutters, adding downspout extensions or buried leaders, and regrading soil next to the house are the cheapest steps, and they often stop seasonal puddling on their own.
Interior perimeter drain
A perforated pipe set in gravel along the inside of the foundation catches water that comes through or under the walls and carries it to a sump. Cost scales with the length of the perimeter and how hard the ground is to dig.
Sump pump and discharge line
The pit, pump, check valve, and a discharge line to a safe spot. A battery backup adds to the price and keeps the pump running when a winter storm knocks out power.
Exterior drains
A curtain drain uphill from the house or a footing drain along the outside of the foundation means excavation. Landscaping, walkways, or concrete in the way have to come out and go back.
Cracks and cleanup afterward
Sealing foundation cracks, then replacing a ruined vapor barrier and wet insulation, adds to the total once the water is under control.
Where crawl space water comes from in Everett
A lot of Everett sits on glacial till, a dense, compacted mix of clay, sand, and gravel left behind by the last ice sheet. Rain soaks through the looser soil on top, stops when it reaches the till, and moves sideways along it. If a house is in the way, that water ends up in the crawl space, which is why some crawl spaces stay wet for days after the rain stops.
Houses built into a slope get water running toward the uphill wall. A curtain drain across the slope above the house intercepts it before it reaches the foundation, and it is often cheaper over the long run than pumping the water out once it is inside.
Older homes may have footing drains made of clay tile from the original construction. After 70 or more years, many are cracked, packed with roots, or plugged with silt, so water that once drained away now collects under the house. A camera inspection of the old line shows whether it can be cleared or needs replacing.
From request to estimate
- Call or send the form and say when the water shows up: during storms, a few days after, or all winter.
- A contractor inspects the outside drainage and the crawl space, ideally during or just after wet weather.
- You get a scope that starts with the cheapest fixes for the source, with drains and pumps priced separately.
- After the water is handled, replace the vapor barrier and any wet insulation.
Crawl space waterproofing questions
Do I need a sump pump in my crawl space?
Only if water collects there that gutters, downspouts, and grading can't stop. Fix the outside drainage first and watch the crawl space through a wet stretch. If water still pools at a low spot, a sump pump there is the usual next step.
Can a crawl space be waterproofed from the inside?
Mostly, yes. An interior perimeter drain and sump catch water after it gets in, without digging up the yard. Exterior drains stop water before it reaches the foundation, but the excavation makes them cost more.
Is waterproofing the same as encapsulation?
Waterproofing handles liquid water: drainage, pumps, and cracks. Encapsulation seals the crawl space against humid air and ground moisture. Many homes need only the drainage work. When a home needs both, the drainage goes in first.
How do I check a waterproofing contractor?
Washington requires construction contractors to register with the Department of Labor & Industries. Look the company up with L&I's Verify a Contractor tool to confirm its registration, bond, and insurance before you sign.
Will a dehumidifier dry out a wet crawl space?
A dehumidifier pulls moisture out of the air. It can't keep up with standing water, and running one over a puddle wastes electricity. Get the water out first, then decide whether you need one.